Rock climbing
Product 2020
Man
Massive surprise in the climbing world when Black Diamond launched into the climbing shoe sector, which was already well furnished in brands and models. Amongst all the models on offer the Momentum is the bottom of the range Velcro model. We tested them in long and short routes. First impression: they have a nice look with their Trico material, easy to put on. The Trico gives excellent ventilation, and your feet don’t cook, even when it’s really hot. They are lined with microfiber, and so are very comfortable. They feel wide, so to have a good fit if you have narrow feet, it’s best to add an insole or wear a pair of sockets. They are flat, straight, without any camber, quite basic at first sight, when in actual fact they are pretty technical, and well-designed.
The shoe interior is manufactured in thermoformed plastic, Pebax. The advantage being : different thicknesses according to their position, stiffness at the front and rear of the shoe and flexibility in the middle.
The 4.3mm hard and thick rubber is used for durability. The adherence is excellent, but as the forefoot is rigid this limits their friction usage. But on little ledge foot holds they are precise, sit well and especially on laterals. The Velcro straps could’ve been a little wider, thicker for comfort and especially to relieve the compression on the instep. They are quite pointily shaped and flat at the front, which enables you to keep the point in the holes. The heel is well-enveloped, well-held without the Achilles heel being crushed.
These Momentum are like all Black Diamond shoes, take the same size as your town shoes. As they are made with thermoformed plastic and Tricot hey don’t lose their shape and relax. So there is no pint getting a pair two sizes smaller than your usual shoe size, unless of course you love suffering… The only problem is the width, if you have narrow feet. The best is always to try them on in the shop to be sure of the size and the fit. If you must order over the Internet do it depending on foot measurement in cm.
The Momentum by Black Diamond are sober, well-finished, quite comfortable shoes, even if you are a little surprised by their feel at first. They are good for staring out in routes or inside up to 6c, after that the rigidity and the overall hold limits the possibilities. In high and long cliff faces or mountaineering (their width are a bonus in this case so you can wear socks) they remain comfortable if you have them on for a long time.
Versatile shoes, stunning quality and built to last. The price is a little high for a bottom of the range shoe. They are surprising at first but with interesting qualities that BD will no doubt be evolving in the future… to be continued..
We used this equipment over a long period of time
These are our thoughts after intensive use:
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