Belay devices
Product 2018
Femme, Homme, Enfant
Here it is – the 3rd generation of the well-used belay device from Petzl; now with assisted braking and anti-panic handle. The simple and automatic reflex of being stopped by tightening the hand on the free end of the rope is kept. The overall morphology of the object hasn’t changed a great deal but a few improvements have been introduced that add weight to this version in comparison to the GriGri 2, (30g).
To begin with, even for someone who is used to the system, it’s a good idea to fully digest the instruction manual to be able to visualize and then understand and use the new subtleties to their potential.
It comes in the form of a small booklet in a multitude of languages, showing the Worldwide presence of Petzl, and also a pamphlet that unfolds to show the instructions using the universal language of pictograms, which explain clearly and usefully the diverse manipulations and also the errors to avoid.
The cam has been redesigned. It provides diverse usage especially for modern single ropes with diameters starting at 8.5mm and with a better guided positioning into the groove.
On the pivoting section where the rope slides around the cam there is a stainless steel plate that prevents repeated rubbing damaging the rope. In fact the main innovation in this grigri is the “anti-panic” system.
There could’ve been some sideways remarks or “inappropriate” or accident-prone use with previous models. For example, someone belaying a climber who is not experienced or who panics because of something provoking him/her to seize up on the GriGri and subsequently lowering is much more rapid and further. The rope would be freed of any braking and the climber would be heading fast towards the ground.
This error is no longer possible because this action will immediately cause the rope to brake and stop slipping through. You let go of the handle to unlock- reengage the system, then take it again and put it into action to set it off again.
There is also a button that moves into two positions on the side under the handle corresponding to both situations, take a look at the diagrams. You can lock it in either of the situations and then unlock it less easily.
After testing with a very narrow 8.5mm rope and a 9.2mm diameter from the same brand, we found it was very fluid and pleasant to use. Giving slack quickly seemed to provoke less sudden cam movement and any sudden sticking as they used to. The braking and stopping during a fall is immediate, no problems. Rappelling with the particular rope diameters tested is managed well and easier to control because the handle ergonomics is slightly elongated. Obviously if a lightweight climber is belaying a heavy climber with a narrow rope they have a tendency to descend a little faster! If a heavy climber rappels a lighter climber with added rubbing during the descent you have the tendency to lower the handle a bit too much and the system anti-panic is triggered too easily. You just need a bit of practice and subtly to control its precision.
The device used in the rappelling mode with the locking button is very useful for using with groups, debutants or with children. The difficulty of giving slack, ease of which the rope slides through, the fast braking and efficiency during a fall, the anti-panic mode for descending is great for teachers and professionals.
It encourages good apprenticeship of the activity and the correct gestures to acquire for learning about safety.
For experienced climbers who are already familiar with handling the earlier models, what’s interesting about this GriGri+ is that sometimes you may have a belayer with whom you are not totally confident…
In fact there are not really any dangerous devices but users that can be. It is down to the belayer to block the fall assisted by the device. The device will not do it alone.
Petzl with the GriGri+ provide a device that is improved, updated and a complete success. This doesn’t of course remove the dangers of climbing if climbers are not aware and respect the instruction manual and the correct gestures and positioning of the hand on the free rope end…and don’t remember to knot the free rope end, too much slack or foot placement too far from the base of the rock, etc.
NB: the Petzl website is remarkably well-executed, very interesting and easy to surf. There is every piece of information you could wish for about how to use these devices: worth a look!
We used this equipment over a long period of time
These are our thoughts after intensive use:
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