Belay devices
Product 2019
Woman, Man

BEAL Birdie

The Birdie from Beal is a belay system with assisted braking for a single rope. Sometimes it’s called an “autoblocking system”, but beware, because you need your hand underneath the system to block it, particularly if for some reason the system (whatever the brand), doesn’t trigger the braking. This system type is still very safe and provides reassurance and safety for belaying.

 

The Birdie is very compact, pleasant, well-designed and feels nice in your hand. The parts that are under friction are made from stainless steel, and aluminum for the rest. It feels sturdy and has been designed for intensive use and to last. The only problem with this is it’s a bit heavier than its rivals. This is more a concern on long mountain routes rather than on walls or short routes.

 

The ergonomics are well thought out, it feels good in your hand, either for belaying or top-roping. It holds rope diameters ranging from 8.5mm to 10.5mm. We tested it with a new Béal Opera 8.5mm rope and a 9.8mm rope that was already used and a little stiff.

 

With the 8.5mm you can give slack rapidly, and the rope moves fluidly in the system. With the 9.8mm rope you have to anticipate a little to keep the ropes parallel when you give slack, so you need some experience in using this type of device. In both cases the set-up remains fluid and works well.

To block in the event of a fall, the Béal Birdie is very responsive and whatever the diameter of the rope it triggers perfectly. On the other hand, there is no anti-panic system, yet the self-locking system functions in practically all eventualities, and would only fail in very special, rare configurations.

 

For dynamic belaying, using this type of system you need lots of experience to do it properly, and again, most of the time the braking is brusque. Setting up the rope is easy, logical and even has an engraved diagram to fully understand how it works for beginner’s use. Béal had the great idea of making the rope exit in the device’s axis which avoids it twisting and so they don’t block the system. Top roping the lever gives good control when giving slack descending. It could’ve been a little bit bigger for larger hands and curved for better anticipation.

 

The Birdie Béal is excellent value for money. A little heavier than its competitors, it is mainly best used in short routes or on artificial structures. Very pleasant to use, very fluid and safe, it is a great success on a technical level as well as its look and ergonomics.

 

"The Birdie Béal is excellent value for money. A little heavier than its competitors, it is mainly best used in short routes or on artificial structures. Very pleasant to use, very fluid and safe, it is a great success on a technical level as well as its look and ergonomics."

Rating

  • 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
  • Ease of use
    10
  • Precision
    9
  • Durability, finishing
    10
  • Value for money
    10

Price : 60

Weight

210

Overall Rating

9.75

LONG TERM TEST

We used this equipment over a long period of time
These are our thoughts after intensive use:

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